The voice of the winery


Fermentation, like all vital processes, has a rhythm and thus also a sound.
It is such a magical sensation that of straining one’s ears over a fermenting tank to hear its voice: soft, muffled yet deep, emanating such disarming energy and strength. The elements of air and fire rule over the metamorphosis of the grapes into wine, as the state of matter changes but not its essence.

For me, to taste these wines-in-the-making is a way of getting to know, under a different guise, the vineyards. With deep wonder, one starts to understand their reaction and behaviour in answer to the year’s climate, to our farming techniques – there are no hasty evaluations on their taste.
Time is never deceptive.
The moment I prefer for tasting is the evening, when the day’s work is over and I am left alone with the symphony of fermentations as my soundtrack.

At harvest time, the winery becomes the centre of the universe.
Silent for most of the year, in the forty days of harvest it is filled with new energies, thoughts, feelings but also smells, colours and sounds. I feel that to be in the winery during this period is one of the most beautiful and enriching experiences for the senses: all of them are involved and incited.
To open the doors and to be welcomed by the aromas of the fermenting tanks revives both my enthusiasm and joy. The mind and soul are once more nourished by images, emotions, olfactory memories of when, as a child, I would anxiously wait for Pa on his tractor to unload and crush the grapes of our small vineyard, or of when in the following days I would help him with the work in the winery. These were my first glimpses of a world that has stayed with me ever since.

In recent years, I experience the harvest period with less apprehension – I am thankful of that which the forces of the earth and the sky have managed to instil into our fruits.
A certain tension still needs to be present, but it should be constructive and not negative. A greater peace of mind allows me to act consciously, exactly as I do in the vineyards, with a greater freedom of choice and not anchored to the “safe” but authoritarian fixed frameworks of the past. It is a personal growth, that I feel the duty but also the pleasure of achieving for every harvest, giving our wines the opportunity to find ever greater expressive brilliance. In some ways, it is a mutual growth.

 

“It is so pleasant to explore nature and ourselves at the same time,
without causing violence neither to Nature nor to our spirit,
bringing us both, together,
to a balance, to a delicate harmony”
Goethe

 

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